By Jennifer Platts

Each morning as Tracy Mayhew gets ready for work she looks in the mirror and applies the essentail cosmetics, excluding mascara because of a new product tinting her eyelashes.

Mayhew says she's been using the tinting process for four years and hasn't had a problem with it. Occasionally it gets in her eyes and stings, but nothing serious has happened from dyeing her lashes.

"I use it because I'm a redhead, so I have really light eyelashes,"says Mayhew.

Despite past criticisms by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States, many salon owners and optometrists say eyelash and eyebrow tinting is safe, if done by a professional. Women find this new procedure convenient, less messy and less time-consuming because mascara is no longer needed.

The Cocoon Esthetic Clinic in Charlottetown is one of many beauty clinics providing the eyelash/eyebrow tinting service to its clientele.

Owner and esthetician Michelle Hill says tinting is safe and demand is high.

"Quite a few use this service, about 25 to 30 per cent of our clientele. Sure (it can be dangerous), if it's done wrong. It's like any other eye cosmetic (if it enters the eye), a lot of exposure over a long period of time can be harmful,"says Hill.

The clinic uses a vegetable-base dye extracted from a plant.

"If it's done properly, it's the same as any service. Have it done by a professional,"Hill said.

There are risks, but there are also risks to using mascara.

Optometrist Carolyn J. M. Acorn says tinting eyelashes is safe because it's not applied every day. In fact, mascara can be a problem because bacteria sometimes builds up in containers which is dangerous to the eye.

"Basically, anyone I've seen had no injuries. Many have been uncomfortable because of solids that close to the eye. The worst effect is dye in the eye creating temporary extreme pain which heals in two to three days,"says Acorn.

"I tell patients not to wear contact lenses. Contacts make it difficult for the eye to flush out nasty chemicals, just like in chemistry labs, you can't wear lenses."

Estheticians would have to do a really bad job in order for the eye to be permanently damaged, she said.

Owner Angela Lamoureux of the Really You Esthetics clinic says tinting is growing more popular as people hear about it.

"A lot of people aren't really aware of it. We ask if they've ever thought about having it done, if we think they would make a good candidate.

"Once they've had it once, they come back. It's especially popular in the summer. Women can go to the beach and not worry about wearing mascara that will run off,"said Lamoureux.

There are no ill-effects or dangers if it's done properly, she said.

"We use a vegetable oil, which is tints from vegetables, more so than chemicals. Three drops of peroxide is used to hold the tint to the lash hair."

The process begins with a tiny amount of petroleum jelly applied to the back of a paper guard. The guard is called a lash paper and is placed under the bottom eyelashes. Clients must look up during this process.

Then the client closes her eyes and a mixed tint is applied. It is similar to a toothpaste texture. It's applied thick and is left on for eight to 10 minutes. The eyes are closed throughout this time.

Finally, the lash papers and tint are removed with a clean tissue and Q-tips.

Pads are used to protect the cheeks from being tinted. Eyebrow tinting doesn't need pads or petroleum jelly because the dye is painted on.

Lamoureux says allergic reactions don't usually occur, but if someone can't use hair dyes, they should not have the tinting done. Estheticians ask clients about their experiences with hair dyes before tinting is started.

Tinting usually lasts for three to six weeks depending on the client, says Lamoureux. Tinting runs about $15 to $20.

"It's been around for a long time, but it's the current trend."

Holland College Cosmetology program instructor Bev Garnhum says tinting is an optional lesson in their program.

"It goes with the trends. It's an introduction, we don't go into it in-depth,"says Garnhum.

"The products used are not the same as hair dyes, it's a vegetable color. With everything, you have to be careful. Professionals are trained and they know what they're doing,"she says.

"It's just starting to catch on here. Probably sometime in the future it will be picked up."

The process was first developed in 1933, but it wasn't recommended by the FDA, and still isn't.

In the early days, the FDA had no authority to prohibit the cosmetic product Lash Lure from being used, even though it caused allergic reactions in many women.

One women suffered intense pain for weeks then became blind, another women died from a reaction to eyelash tinting.

A new Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act was passed in 1938 and Lash Lure was the first product seized under its authority.

Today, the FDA says consumers should never dye their eyebrows or eyelashes.

Allergic reactions like swelling, inflammation and susceptibility to infection in the eye area may occur, leading to severe harm to the eye and possibly blindness.

The FDA prohibits the use of dyes for eyebrows and eyelash tinting or dyeing, even in beauty salons.

This doesn't mean it's illegal to distribute the product.

These dyes should not be confused with temporary coloring used around the eyes, such as, mascara, eye shadow, eyebrow pencils and eye liners, which contain colors approved by the FDA for the eye area.

The FDA warns consumers no natural or synthetic color additives have been approved for tinting or dyeing lashes or brows, in beauty salons or at home.

The law requires patch tests be included in instructions to identify possible allergy reactions and to carry warnings about the dangers of applying these products to lashes and brows.

Mayhew has heard about the problems, but isn't ready to abondon the process.

"When I hear about the problems that can happen to your eyes if you use this, I worry about it. In the States, they have been having problems with it and have banned it in some states. I haven't had any problems with it,"she said.